(This information is part of the package given to our puppy buyers)

We have put together some helpful hints and answers to some commonly asked questions to help you through the first few weeks with your puppy.

Things you will need: 

Leash - nylon or leather 6-8 foot leash.  A shorter leash may be more desirable for a younger puppy.
Collar- flat nylon buckle collar, or nylon choker is recommended for the first 6 months. We do not recommend putting on a metal choke chain until at least 6 months of age.
Food and Water Dishes- Any durable and preferably chew resistant bowls will do.  No ceramic or glass bowls.  Keep in mind that a full grown shepherd can eat as much as 8 cups of food a day, so the bowl should be quite big.
Crate- We recommend buying a large or extra large size dog crate. If used properly a puppy's crate will become it's sanctuary.  A crate helps train your puppy not to relieve itself where it sleeps.  A crate is also a safe place to put your puppy at night, when you leave your house or just simply when you need a break from each other.  You can use a wire crate or a covered airline crate. Keep in mind that a wire crate with a pull out tray is easier to clean than a covered airline crate. 

The First Week:

It is quite normal for your puppy to cry during it's first few nights with you.  This usually only lasts until your puppy develops an attachment to you, and forgets his littermates  and then he will settle down and sleep through the night.  Some people find that putting the puppy's crate in their bedroom  for the first few nights is helpful.

House training:

The main key to house training is to try to be home as much as possible during the first few weeks with your puppy.  We find that the easiest way to properly train your dog is to regularly take the pup out to relieve itself.  On the first day take the pup out every half hour, and every time they wake up from a nap, or long sleep, even if its only a five minute nap.  When the pup goes be ready with lots of praise and treats.  Over the next few weeks extend the time between trips outside.  As time goes on the pup will learn to hold it longer.  Training puppies not to go overnight is the most common problem buyers call us about.  The mistake most often made is waiting for your puppy to cry in the night and then taking it outside.  The puppy usually has been crying for a few minutes before you actually hear it and by the time you get dressed and out of bed the puppy has already gone.  The best way to train your puppy is to put it on a nightly schedule.  Try letting your pup out before you go to bed at night and then try letting it out at 2:00 am and then again at 6:00.  You can do this for a few days  and then cut out the 2:00 break.  If your pup does well with no break in the night then you can try stretching 6:00 to 7:00.  This may seem like a lot of work for you, but it will pay off in the long run when you have a well house trained dog.  A lot of people ask us about how to train a puppy to go in the same spot every time.  This is a difficult task, but is best done by consistently taking the puppy to the same spot every time it goes out to relieve itself. 

When puppies hit about 9-10 weeks they begin the "curious" stage and may decide to investigate their surroundings a little more, and decide they don't want to come back in that boring house!  This can be frustrating...especially when its -20, or pouring rain!  We keep a bowl, or box of treats at the door the puppy goes out, and when they come in from outside they must sit, and get a treat.  This will be helpful later on when they are coming in with muddy feet, giving you time to dry them off.  Usually shaking the box of treats, or saying the word "cookie" will bring a curious puppy flying back inside.

Training:

You can begin taking your puppy to puppy obedience classes very early. Most obedience training facilities accept puppies after their second or third vaccination.  Puppy classes are a great way to socialize your puppy with both people and other dogs.  In puppy classes you learn basic obedience; sits, downs, stays and heeling.  Most people find that with an intelligent breed such as a Shepherd, these classes are all that is needed to have an obedient dog.  We recommend McCann Professional Trainers, and you can visit their website at http://www.mccanndogs.com/index2.htm

Discipline and Praise:

You must always remember that your puppy knows your moods by the tone of your voice.  You should try to have a voice for discipline, which is low and deep, and a voice for praise which is higher and sweeter.  The puppy will know whether it has been good or bad by the tone of your voice.  Praise should be backed up by some kind of treat in puppyhood, and dogs can be weaned off of treats as praise as they get older.  Dog treats work well for dogs who are food motivated.  For dogs who are not food crazy, a favourite toy like a tennis ball or stuffed animal can be used.  For example, when your puppy comes in from relieving itself it should sit on the door mat and wait to be released.  This makes it easy to clean the dog's feet on muddy days. If the dog completes this task it should be rewarded with a treat or its favourite toy, which are kept close to the door. 

Puppy Problems:

Biting:
This is one of the most common  problems new owners face with their puppies.  Puppy biting is a natural thing.  You must consider how your puppy has been raised...likely with a number of other puppies, who communicate with each other, often by biting, chewing, wrestling etc.  When puppies play they usually gently mouth other puppies, and if they happen to bite too hard, the other puppy will respond with a yelp, and a sharp bite back.  The game is then over, and the offending puppy has lost his playmate.  Puppies may try to communicate in the same way with their owners.   As you pet, or play with your puppy you may get a sudden and hard bite!  You should respond in the same way as the littermates of your puppy did, with a very loud  yelling of "ouch!", or "ach...no!!!!!)  This may seem strange, but it works.  The puppy should immediately stop chewing your hand and will probably look at you in surprise. Usually the puppy will then lick your hands instead of biting.  You then praise the puppy and pet it.  You should then give the puppy one of its toys to show him what he is allowed to chew, and end the play session with you and your dog, so the puppy understands that biting means the end of something fun...  If all family members consistently use this method, you should be able to stop the problem of biting before it starts.  For more dominant puppies we use the method of a quick pinch on the cheek and a firm and very loud NO! Always give the dog a toy or chew bone after this type of discipline, to show them what they are allowed to chew.
Helpful Hints on Raising Your New Puppy